Checklists & How-To, Skin Basics

Skincare routine menstrual cycle: adapt it to every phase

Red ice lolly melting on a beige background, symbolising the menstrual cycle and hormonal changes that affect the skin

Your menstrual cycle has four main phases, and each one comes with specific hormonal changes that influence how your skin behaves. The fluctuations are normal, but the way your skin reacts can be completely different from one phase to another. When you adapt your skincare routine to your cycle, you can prevent many of the usual problems: extra shine and oiliness, deep breakouts, clogged pores, extreme dryness, or sudden sensitivity.

Instead of using the exact same routine every single day and only switching a product from time to time, you can build a ritual that follows your own biology. Below you’ll find what happens to you and your skin in each week of the cycle and how to choose products that match that moment.

Phase 1: Menstrual phase – gentle repair and hydration

Usually days 1–6. In this period, your skin needs intensive hydration and calm.

Estrogen and progesterone are at their lowest levels. Skin often feels dry, dull, and much more sensitive. Any existing inflammation looks redder and tends to heal more slowly. Your skin barrier is fragile and easier to irritate.

Think of this phase as a recovery period.

Skin in this phase tends to be:

  • Dry or dehydrated
  • Dull
  • Sensitive or reactive
  • Slower to heal existing breakouts
  • More vulnerable at the barrier level

What to do in the menstrual phase

1. Cleanse gently, without harsh foam

Put the strong foaming or astringent cleansers on hold. Choose a mild, low-pH gel cleanser or a cleansing balm. The goal is to remove make-up and impurities without stripping away essential lipids.

2. Layer hydrating products

Your skin needs a generous water supply. Apply hydration in layers. Look for:

  • A hydrating toner or essence
  • A serum with hyaluronic acid or glycerin
  • A richer cream with ceramides or squalane

3. Support your skin barrier

Ceramides are key in this phase. A barrier-repair cream helps reduce sensitivity, keeps moisture in, and reduces that tight, uncomfortable feeling.

Avoid in this phase:

  • Strong exfoliation
  • High-strength retinoids
  • Powerful AHA acids
  • Purifying clay masks

This phase is all about protection, hydration, and soothing.

Phase 2: Follicular phase – exfoliation and glow

Usually days 7–13. Now is the moment for gentle activities and radiance.

Your period has ended, and oestrogen starts to rise. Skin bounces back, looks brighter, feels more elastic, and more resilient. Sebum production is often well balanced. This is the “good skin days” window of your cycle.

Skin in this phase tends to be:

  • Brighter
  • More elastic
  • More resilient
  • With balanced sebum

What to do in the follicular phase

1. Introduce light exfoliation

Now your skin usually tolerates active ingredients better. You can bring in:

  • BHA (salicylic acid) to clear out pores
  • Or PHA for very gentle exfoliation

Skin often copes better with acids in this period. If you want a deeper guide to acids and chemical exfoliation, you can link to your dedicated article here.

2. Use vitamin C

A vitamin C serum works particularly well in this window. It helps even out skin tone and provides antioxidant protection against free radicals generated by UV light and pollution.

3. Retinoids – if you use them

The follicular phase is usually the safest time to reintroduce retinol or to increase frequency a little. Skin is more tolerant, and recovery is faster, as long as you keep an eye on sensitivity.

Avoid in this phase:

  • Over-exfoliating
  • Layering too many strong activities in the same routine
  • Very aggressive professional peels at home

This is the phase where you can “work” with your skin and gently intensify treatments.

Phase 3: Ovulation – balance and maintenance

Usually days 14–16. A balanced period, focused on maintenance.

Oestrogen peaks. Your complexion often looks its best: smooth, firm, and naturally glowy. At the same time, testosterone starts to have more influence, and sebum production slowly increases. The main goal here is to keep pores clear and prevent congestion.

Skin in this phase tends to be:

  • At its most “perfect” visually
  • Firm, bright and well hydrated
  • Starting to produce a little more sebum

What to do around ovulation

1. Double cleanse in the evening

A two-step cleanse helps remove sunscreen, make-up, and excess oil thoroughly and keeps pores clearer. Use an oil or balm as the first step, then a mild gel cleanser.

2. Use purifying masks strategically

A clay or charcoal mask, applied on the T-zone or full face (if you are oily), helps prevent congested pores. Once a week is usually enough.

3. Keep hydration light

Switch to gel-cream textures or lighter emulsions so you do not overload the skin as sebum slowly increases.

Avoid in this phase:

  • Very occlusive products
  • Heavy facial oils
  • Very rich creams that feel “suffocating” on the skin

Phase 4: Luteal phase – managing oil and hormonal acne

Usually days 17–28. This is where your skin often struggles most with sebum.

Oestrogen drops sharply and progesterone dominates. The main effect on skin is increased sebum production, but also a thicker, more viscous sebum that is harder to clear from pores. This combination favours blackheads, clogged pores, and those deep, painful spots along the jawline.

Clinical studies suggest that more than half of adult women notice a flare in inflammatory acne lesions in the late luteal phase of the cycle. PMC

Skin in this phase tends to be:

  • Oilier, with more shine
  • More inflamed
  • With congested, enlarged pores
  • Prone to hormonal breakouts

What to do in the luteal phase

1. Use BHA – your hero ingredient

Reach for salicylic acid 2–3 times per week. Because it is oil-soluble, it can travel inside the pore and help dissolve compacted sebum. You can use either a BHA serum or a leave-on toner.

2. Add niacinamide

A niacinamide serum helps regulate sebum production and has excellent anti-inflammatory properties. It can reduce redness and the visible size of active lesions.

3. Choose calming ingredients

In cleansers, creams, or BB creams, look for soothing ingredients such as centella asiatica (cica), green tea extract, or mugwort. They support inflamed skin and help temper reactivity.

4. Use targeted spot treatments

When you feel a spot brewing, apply a local treatment:

  • Hydrocolloid patches
  • Azelaic acid
  • Tretinoin prescribed by your dermatologist
  • Salicylic acid applied only to the lesion

Avoid in this phase:

  • Excessive exfoliation “to dry out” spots
  • Very heavy creams
  • Harsh acid combinations in the same routine

This is the phase where you actively prevent hormonal acne and calm existing inflammation.

Beyond products: habits that support your skin through the cycle

Keep a skin diary

Log day 1 of your cycle in your phone calendar. Over two or three months, check in with your skin on days 7, 14, 21, and 25 and describe how it looks and feels. You will start to see a clear pattern. Then you can adjust your routine more intuitively to match your own rhythm.

Look at your diet

In the luteal (premenstrual) phase, try to reduce refined sugar and high-glycaemic snacks, as well as large amounts of dairy if you know they trigger you. These can increase systemic inflammation and may aggravate breakouts for some people.

Hydration still matters

Drink enough water throughout the month. Dehydrated skin often compensates by producing more sebum, which makes late-cycle congestion worse.

Learning your rhythm, not fighting it

Your skin sends you clear signals all month; adapting your skincare to your menstrual cycle simply means you finally learn how to read them. Instead of reacting when your skin already “explodes”, you can anticipate hormonal shifts and support your body with the right textures and ingredients at the right time.

Knowing your own cycle is one of the most powerful tools for a more stable, balanced, and healthy complexion. When you work with your hormones instead of against them, skincare becomes less about putting out fires and more about helping your skin feel supported, every week of the month.

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